Oregon’s shoreline has lots of secrets: veiled surprises and pleasures, private, deserted beaches and hidden gems peppering the towns in the form of lodgings or restaurants.
But possibly the most sensational secret on all of Oregon’s coast lies simply beyond the art and culture capital of Cannon Beach, on the north coast. There’s a castle a bit south of town, hidden behind the walls of trees just north of the Arch Cape Tunnel. You can become king and queen here, at this insanely romantic area that smacks of something between the Bavarian castle that motivated Disneyland’s signature structure and the Oregon ski lodge included in “The Shining.”
St. Bernard’s Bed & Breakfast is a remarkable and classy building peppered with creative details, including 7 striking guestrooms filled with antiques, stunning furnishings and a sense of the Victorian merged with contemporary grace.
On one specific night in April, I reach St. Bernard’s near to 8:30 p.m., and it’s pitch black. https://testweb.company/ I’ve been here prior to a couple of times and seen littles it, but for the first time I park in back, finding the captivating strings of lights in the garden and on the walls, in addition to the 2 deer figures made from light bulbs. I stop to glare and look at these, and at the archway going through the structure, half expecting to see a member of some royal household show up in a carriage and be ushered out by some servant.
Inside the enormous front door, owner Barbara Dau welcomes me in and up the snaking, stone stairs into the living room. Here, chandeliers and classy furniture populate the location, with a nifty little rounded nook in one corner – undoubtedly part of the “tower.” In the early evenings, Barbara hosts “social hours” for the guests here, including wine and friendship in front of the fireplace.
I get here too late for this, obviously, but Barbara informs me these can sometimes be fun-packed and vibrant, while at other times none of the guests appear at all. It’s a no-pressure occasion, and with extraordinary beaches just a block away – who can blame them? Just across the street are the beautiful, spotless sands of Arch Cape, a tiny unincorporated community which includes one store and a smattering of houses. In front of it sits a gorgeous stretch of beach that runs for miles to the north, while immediately to the south hovers a craggy basalt cliff, where access to a wild and odd rocky cove is periodically given by low tides.
The rooms at St. Bernard’s Bed & Breakfast are jaw dropping – at least. The “Ginger” ($179) includes blue and white fabrics, oriental ginger containers and a love seat, with a king size bed from Austria. In “Gaugin” ($169) there’s a cozy window seat, a funky bathtub, soft pastels of the artist and a queen size bed. The stunning “Heather” ($189) is on the top flooring and includes a private deck, vaulted ceilings and a sitting area with a love seat. The “Parisian” ($149) features relaxing, hand painted floral wallpaper, a window seat, a wingback chair, and has a Victorian vibe. The stunning “Tower” remains in the tower and it’s substantial ($209), with a sitting area, large soaking tub, numerous antiques, and it’s curtained in dreamy white lace. The “Provence” ($209) is on the garden level and is sequestered away from the rest of this small palace, with terra-cotta floorings, Jacuzzi and French doors opening into a private patio.
My room was the “Tapestry” ($209), with an unbelievable economy size bed, engaging tapestries on the wall and floor, a big French armoire, and huge soaking tub that shrieks honeymoon hangout. There’s a curious little reading nook with a stained glass ceiling, and the television comes encased in a cute reproduction of a castle.
At night, the ocean was the only noise you heard: relaxing and relaxing beyond belief.
In the early morning, I observe the window (ironically) gazes straight out to a view of Castle Rock – simply offshore from Arch Cape.
Early morning also means a luscious, gourmet, house cooked meal prepared by Dau herself. Dau was a chemist in her previous life in Chicago, and joked that meal making must be an extension of that part of chemists that like to cook things. (Given this castle ambiance, I laugh to myself and envision her in a lab coat, babbling maniacally as she works up a dish while lighting thunders all around).
Guests sit together in the stunning atrium-like dining room, where they chat and get to understand each other. I sat with a young couple from Portland and another older couple from Michigan who have actually been regulars since the place began in 1995. In reality, they were amongst the very first visitors in its first two weeks.
These numerous, memorable features, St. Bernard’s deals gift certificates. Dau likewise offers wedding bundles that accommodate up to 60 people and her signature, wondrous cooking.
Other tempting elements of this location include more secret beaches just to the south and north. A few miles north, you’ll discover the enchanting Hug Point, which is packed with interesting and odd geologic developments like funky sea caverns, a waterfall and numerous shapes and fractures in the cliffs. Its most interesting landmark is a piece of roadway blasted out of a basalt promontory – a residue of when the beaches were the only genuine highway the seaside region had, back around 1910. You can even see the leftovers of a traffic control ingrained in the rock. In Cannon Beach, you’ll discover a big selection of upscale dining establishments that are famous, along with some Lewis & Clark landmarks.
St. Bernard’s Bed & Breakfast is on East Ocean Rd., just north of the Arch Cape Tunnel. www.st-bernards.com. 800-436-2848.
For more on this region see www.beachconnection.net/vtour_cbeach.htm.
Maybe the most stunning trick on all of Oregon’s coast lies simply outside of the art and culture capital of Cannon Beach, on the north coast. There’s a castle a bit south of town, concealed behind the walls of trees just north of the Arch Cape Tunnel. You can end up being king and queen here, at this remarkably romantic area that smacks of something between the Bavarian castle that motivated Disneyland’s signature structure and the Oregon ski lodge included in “The Shining.”
(Given this castle ambiance, I laugh to myself and imagine her in a lab coat, babbling maniacally as she whips up a meal while lighting thunders all around).
St. Bernard’s Bed & Breakfast is on East Ocean Rd., simply north of the Arch Cape Tunnel.